Day : 22

Location : Bullara Station, Baiyungu country

Kms travelled : 309

After our amazing Whale Shark Safari, we zoomed 65km north to Bullarra Station Stay. Kat had seen it regularly popping up as a ‘must do’ on Station Hoppers and was keen to check it out.

We arrived just after 5pm, narrowly missing the ‘happy hour’ free damper, but still in time to BYO beer and hear camp host John spin a yarn and recite some bush poetry. Set up camp in the enormous grounds at our allocated spot in the back corner (was it because we brought the-saddest-baby-in-the-world™ into the office at check in?) and Kat promptly left Sam with the grizzle baby to go enjoy the outdoor shower under the stars. (side note : Kat had been giving a shampoo bar a go for its zero waste properties while travelling, but after 3 weeks of tacky gross hair she could take it no longer and crawled back to the familiarity of stuff in a bottle – at least her brand of choice is not releasing microbeads into the environment – that’s something right?)

Reheated some left overs for dinner once Roly gave in and went to sleep (it’s not all blue eyes and smiles here, and gosh it’s good having a fridge in the back of the disco).

After watching a stunning outback sunrise over the paddocks from the comfort of our toasty tent the next morning we elected to stay another night at Bullara. Not only was it a characterful place warranting a little more time, but our next point of exploration, Cape Range National Park, had its campsites entirely booked out.(photos : beautiful Bullara)

Enjoyed coffee and scones at the Homestead, on offer each morning for $9, and did some laundry which dried the minute it went on the line it was so hot and windy, then headed off from our base to explore Exmouth and surrounds.

Bullara is 85km from Exmouth, and an easy highway drive. Along Minilya-Exmouth Road we passed RAAF Learmonth – the first reminder for Sam that work exists since our departure, and a possible career option should a caretaker position become available in the future, and stopped in at the impressive newly built ‘discovery centre’ – info centre + library + Shire offices + TAFE – for a look and to top up the water jerries (free potable water next to the big prawn).(photo : pretty big prawn, looks anatomically accurate)

On the opposite end of the peninsula to the reef, Exmouth felt a little more like a tourist top up spot than a hub from which to explore Ningaloo, despite having vastly more tour options than Coral Bay. Filled up with fuel at a local spot offering a discount to Bullara patrons, grabbed some groceries and did a lap of town past the amazing water play park (when you’re older Roly). Yardie Creek Road runs through the national park and along the reef and does link back up with the main road south of the park after a creek crossing, the condition of which is heavily affected by the tide. We stopped at the Cape Range Info Centre to see if it might be an option for us, but the stern lady at the desk turned us off with a flip book of photos of cars having become bogged, stuck or washed away at the crossing.(photos : whale shark theme predominates at info centres, unsurprisingly)

We settled for a swim and a snorkel at oft photographed Turquoise Bay. Here there’s a current along the reef creating a ‘drift loop’ where you pop in at one point and let the water carry you for a lovely snorkel down along the reef before you frantically swim back to shore to avoid being sucked out to sea.

(photos : can’t take a pic of the beach without millenials doing it for the ‘gram getting in the way #husbandsofinstagram, or dorks asking Dutch backpackers to take a family photo #mumtum)

After lunch and a dip we turned back the way we came, afterall, it was Burger Night at Bullara ($10, just byo plate) so we had to be back and ready by 6. At camp we took a shower in the lava-trees (get it? It took Kat a while to get the play on words) where a hose fills a holey bucket hanging from a tree and you can see the sky while you scrub. We’d actually missed the 4pm deadline to get on board with burgers, but station owner Edwina kindly took pity on our poor starving tent based family and russled up a few more patties for us. It was a great community atmosphere sharing a meal around a big campfire, Roly did the rounds meeting fellow campers and stared transfixed into the flames (definitely a budding pyromaniac).(photo : burgers and bonfires)

Day : 21

Location : Bullarra Station, Baiyungu country – more to come on this amazing place later!

Kms travelled : 69

Whale sharks swum with : 4

We had the campsite packed up in 15 minutes (a new record?!) and were ready and eagerly waiting our Whale Shark Safari with time to spare. We’d elected to go out with Coral Bay Eco Tours, a locally owned, carbon neutral company with heavy involvement from the local indigenous people (including the naming of their three boats – we went out on the Kai Aura – and running regular Coral Bay Dreaming sessions where an elder speaks to a group about the history of the land – sadly the next one was after we’ll have left the region). Winds of up to 25 knots were expected for the morning, and it was a bit touch and go if they’d cancel our trip, but in the end our tour of 12 people went ahead.

Roly decided to take his breakfast on the bus ride to the jetty, then demanded we change a truly awful nappy on getting on to the boat. Fortunately that was the end of any drama he was bringing, and he was a star baby the rest of the trip, taking naps rocked to sleep by the waves and spending his awake time cooing at the staff and grey nomads sharing our experience.

(photo : love the reef, probably referring to the other great reef, but still an appropriate shirt)

We had no shortage of offers to babysit while we had a snorkel, but didn’t need to make use of them, easily taking turns to snorkel on the Ningaloo Reef and then to do what we’d come for – swim with the magestic whale shark.

We were beyond lucky to see and swim with (I think) four different whale sharks, including two at once! (a rare occurrence given they are solitary creatures) Filter-feeders, meaning they eat plankton and krill much like a whale, they didn’t pose any threat to us, and didn’t seem to mind the company while pursuing their lunch. The largest of these amazing marine animals has been clocked at an impressive 18m long, our friends were in the 7m range. Kat and Sam (particularly Sam) being the more confident swimmers of the group were able to get almost some one on one time with the creatures! It was a well practiced system of the boat dropping a group off ahead of the shark, letting it swim by (and following it for a while if we could keep up), then being picked up by the boat again to repeat the process until the tourists or the whales tired of it. The whales are spotted by an overhead plane, shared between the two companies going out from Coral Bay (in Exmouth there’s apparently 5 spotter planes for 10 tour companies) and piloted by young bucks trying to get their hours up and German backpackers in the sack.

The two opportunities for a reef snorkel were also pretty spectacular. Along with beautiful coral and tropical fish we spotted a turtle and two rays (although not the manta ray that has a wingspan of 5-6m and gets its own specific tour).

(photos : boat life)

Forgot to check the waterproof camera was charged before we embarked, and it was not. Fortunately the expert services of Alex Kydd Photography were on hand, and given Sam in particular had provided so much photo fodder, we splurged and purchased his album of the day. Will share our faves when we can!

Because the last post is a bit wordy, and because I’ve had some trouble with the app uploading photos when we’re in and out of phone reception, AND because the formatting on the last post went hella weird and these are written on a phone so it’s just all too hard basket to fix, here’s a bunch of pics from the last few days with pretty much no context so our followers (all 3 of you) don’t think we’re boring and will keep reading.

Day : 18, 19 & 20

Location : Quobba Blowholes & Gnaraloo Station, Maya country, Coral Bay, Thalanyji country

Warning : word heavy post ahead   will lift our game with the pics

(photo : kites and cliffs at Gnaraloo)

Kms travelled : 460, 134 & 390

In contrast to previous, we were near the last to leave the camp ground this morning, after a bit of a sleep in, some playtime with the baby and a delicious chocolate porridge of Sam’s culinary creation. As it always does, the road out felt much shorter than the road in, and before we knew it we were back in Denham. Stopped to separate our rubbish at the excellent recycling station, for our morning coffee and a change&feed before heading back to the mainland proper.(photo : recycling central)

Stopped at Eagle Bluff to walk the 200m board walk with spectacular views into the shallows below, where sea creatures abound. Spotted at least 3 sharks, a ray and maybe a turtle. Wondered if the sharks we’d seen were ‘nervous sharks’ – the most common variety in the bay, with a hilarious name that I hope matches their nature. Definitely worth a stop (better with binoculars).(photo : Eagle Bluff views)

Fueled the disco and our bellies three at the Outlander Roadhouse and debated a destination for the night. Aiming for Gnaraloo station, some 150km north of Carnarvon seemed ambitious, but we pressed on. (Kat would have liked a stop at Wooramel Station where there’s an artesian hot tub, but it really wasn’t far enough for the day’s travel).At Carnarvon we picked up a few groceries – Kat fed Roly on a bench in the small shopping centre while Sam shopped, and was gently approached by an older fellow who just wanted to let her know breastfeeding was a beautiful thing and a lovely connection between mum and baby. Suprisingly it was not as creepy as it sounds. Incidentally, Roly has taken a feed at lots of different roadside stops, cafes, shops, national parks and tourist sights this trip and no-one has ever batted an eye!

Popped into the Information Centre for some advice about nearby campsites. Strange and kind of lovely that in the internet age these are still a necessity. Particularly good in our use for ‘about town’ knowledge, and when internet is patchy so we can’t adequately research on the road. Kat particularly likes looking at the pamphlets, and returning ones we’ve used to the racks at a different but still geographically relevant centre. The human aspect is nice, especially when you’ve been out bush and only spoken to each other for a few days, and the facilities always well maintained.Topped up the water jerries at the free potable water tap on the way out of town, where a bloke rinsed down his car despite a sign clearly stating not to. We’re never sure if we should make comment to these people embarking on questionable behaviours. Are we bad global citizens if we turn a blind eye?

45 odd minutes later we could see the Quobba blowholes blowing on the horizon and given witching hour approached we figured it was as good as any a place to camp the night. Another camp ground with an on site volunteer caretaker, they did the rounds not long after we set up camp and set us back $11pp. The husband and wife team were enamoured with Roly, naturally.It was blowing a gale at this beach side spot, our first taste of the WA wind we’d read so much about on camping forums. At least it kept the flies at bay (although we have been very lucky on that front too). Sam, the camp culinary genius (and top cook at home too really) grilled the snapper fillet we’d picked up from Denham (the wholesale place has a retail window open on weekdays) and whipped up some chips and salad to accompany it, which we ate hastily to avoid it blowing away on us! Roly took a little bit to settle, but once asleep didn’t seem to mind at all that winds had the tent flapping at all angles all night!It was a restless night’s sleep, with the tent seeming it might take off ala The Wizard of Oz. The wind was still howling as the sun was rising so as soon as there was light enough we packed up (having put most of our stuff in the car the night before to stop the disco blowing over the dunes anyway) and hit the road.The sealed road ends at the Quobba blowholes, and should you take the dirt road beyond you really do head off the beaten track and into quite remote Outback Australia (although as east coasters it sounds strange to think of places along the water being remote). Unfortunately the trade off is that the road does not connect across the dunes to the north, so after a stay at Gnaraloo you’ve got to come out the way you came, nearly back to Carnarvon. The 75km was signposted 2WD accessible and only mildly couregated with a few rocky patches.(photo : road by cliffs, crossing road trains from mines)It took us a little over an hour, passing Quobba Station, Red Bluff and finally arriving at Three Mile Camp, the campground of Gnaraloo station. A sprawling ground, with rustic but perfectly adequate amenities and ocean views at every site, we set up, then went up to the small shop to pay our way. Shopkeep Mel and sidekick Peter the chocolate lab (who greeted us with whole body waggles) checked us in at $20pp and gave us the run down. The site also supports the Gnaraloo Wilderness Foundation, with its main project being the Gnaraloo Turtle Conservation Program, focused on protecting the population of Loggerhead Turtles that call the southern end of the Nigaloo Reef home. Main turtle spotting time is November to February they tell us, and apparently the group take on volunteer wilderness warriors around this time to protect the nests amongst the dunes and little hatchings making their way to the sea.(photos : Three Mile Camp) We took our time finalising the set up, with the wind hanging around but slowly settling. Had a late brekky of pancakes and set about exploring.First stop was Tombstones. A surfing Mecca named for the rock formations on the cliffs above the formidable waves. The parking lot was packed – surely not all these people came from Gnaraloo, some must make the day trip up. Took a walk along the cliffs and saw a turtle, along with a few brave souls catching some sizable waves. Girls in bikinis dotted the shore, and Kat felt out of place having selected a swimmer bottom that did not intentionally sit fair up one’s arse.(photos : gnarly gnaraloo) A rough rocky track followed the coast back to the Gnaraloo station gate, and we chased it along with spectacular views until an unfortunate bogging in an unexpected sand dune. Sam had just begun the recovery process, furiously shovelling copious soft sand from under the discos tyres, when four blokes in a Hilux came out the way we’d (almost) gone in and in no time had winched the old chap out of trouble. No fuss (or hint of judgement of the idiot youths in their estate vehicle) on their part, although Sam perhaps would have liked to have proven we could have gotten ourselves out. (Roly had elected this this time to demand a feed, rendering Kat useless to help, although perhaps keeping the baby quiet was the best help she could offer).We decided then that a swim was well overdue, so took the track back past the Gnaraloo Homestead to Gnaraloo Bay where the flies were horrendous but the water spectacular (even recommended by Lonely Planet as a pristine spot). Didn’t stay long (oh god the flies!), but grabbed an ice cream and took another dip back at camp in the Three Mile Lagoon where the snorkelling was phenomenal as the tide went out. Kat asserts she saw as many colourful tropical fish as she did at the Great Barrier Reef, although the coral at this tail end of Ningaloo Reef was not as spectacular.(photos : spoiled for snorkelling)

Weary after a poor sleep the night before and a big day, we couldn’t wait for the flies, the sun, and the baby to go down so we could gobble down an easy casserole dinner and get some early shut eye. Sadly, the zipper on the 30+ year old Oz Tent finally gave up the ghost on our return post snorkel, and after many an exhausted and frustrated attempt by each of us to mend it, we retired to a bed truly open to the elements

.It was sad to say goodbye to Three Mile Camp in the morning, it’s definitely a place you could set up for a few weeks and soak in the scenery. We backtracked to Carnarvon, figuring it our best chance at a rapid fix for the 30+ year old tent zipper. When phone service returned, we found Parkwood Upholstery, run by husband and wife team Dave and Lisa, and experts in tailor made swags. These kind folk sorted us out with a replacement zipper for the bargain price of $45, it only cost us an hour or so, and we had to take the tent off the poles ourselves (they’ve done it before and report it a divorce triggering task). We wrangled the tent loose, Roly was no help as per usual, and occupied ourselves with a lap of the main street (and a chat to the nice local pharmacist Ben, who had some good recommendations for Coral Bay).(photo : pulling apart a family heirloom, Roly supervising)

On the road again with a fully functional temporary home, we stopped on the way out of town at one of many orchard stores for some fruit and a mango iceblock. And learned that apparently the ‘lunch box banana’ is a Carnarvon creation – a smaller, sweeter variety of the handfruit. Stopped for a roadside feed where the flies were so thick that out of the car felt like walking in risotto

.Arrived in a very different Coral Bay to the one Sam remembers from 10yrs ago. Absolutely packed to the brim, it appeared to have 25x its core population. We got one of the last remaining campsites between two caravan parks, set up quickly and went to the pub. It was happy hour at Bill’s, so we enjoyed some local beers on tap (milk for Roly) and debated our whale shark tour options. Hastily booked one for tomorrow (fingers crossed the wind isn’t too bad!) then had dinner at the cafe/restaurant near Peoples Park (our home for the night) and packed a bag ready to hit the reef!

Quote of the day : “It’d blow the milk outta your tea” – Sam at Quobba blowholes, borrowing a phrase from a fella we’d met on the Nullarbor. It did, in fact, literally blow the head off Sam’s beer that night.