Miriwoong country & Kija country

While TK and Cecilia got their interval training done in the relative cool of first light, Sam got busy making coffee. Muz and Tegs took Roly for a croc hunt along the rivers edge and came back with a handful of green ants Roly insisted everyone have a taste of. How he remembers that their abdomen has a zesty flavoured pop when bitten I do not know.

A rolling breakfast and pack up followed and we said goodbye camp Egret and left old man boob to hear the stories of the next lot of travellers.

First stop was Zebedee Springs again. A few more people there than yesterday, but we still found a nice pocket of warm water to wash the pack up dust off and soothe our weary muscles from yesterday’s walk.

Although the Gibb River Road is still closed following the wet (a bit of a bummer), we turned left out of El Questro to have a look at the iconic Pentacost River crossing. It was full and impressive, but not terribly deep (as a random bloke demonstrated as he walked across). Enormous Barra carcasses sat right next to the opening, at least a metre in length, proof of someone’s fishing success, and a tasty treat for crocs we’re sure lurked nearby.

Next stop was Emma Gorge. The day had gotten away from us, but we weren’t deterred by the “gate closes at midday” sign despite turning up at 11am. Kat checked the old blog – we did the walk up the gorge in 30min back in 2019. Challenge set.

We powered up, TK hauling Roly and Sam with Hen again, in part shade only, in the heat of the day. Passing groups coming back along the path mercifully told us “you’re not far” and noone made any mention of the questionable decision to embark on a hike at high sun.

Made it to the gorge in 35min. (Kat must have embellished the last retelling). Kat dragging along at the back was bolstered on by whoops and cheers and splashes coming from up ahead as the track opened onto what we all agree is top 5 swimming holes in Australia. The green wall, waterfall, trickling droplets from overhanging rocks and temperature gradient from thermal spring across the pool were just as Kat and Sam remember it. We allowed a quick dip, not wanting to take the piss of El Questro management policies, or risk getting locked in.

It was a hot quick walk out, made slightly more tricky for Kat by the sole of her left scarpa boot falling off midway.

It was then lunch on the road, instead of our intended shady swimming spot, and then Kununurra for coffee, to pump up the tires again and a grocery and beer restock.

TK had the suggestion of Lake Argyle, somewhere Kat and Sam had never been, and what a good idea it was! 70km from Kununurra, there’s a Caravan Park / Boat Hire / Tour Centre / Bar & Bistro positioned right by the lake, with iconic infinity pool. Naturally, that was the first stop after setting up.

Roly chatted to some kids around his age hanging around at the toilet block (not much has changed since Kat was a kid on holidays at a caravan park apparently). TK & Cecilia cooked up a pesto chicken pasta and we all rolled through hot showers and putting on some laundry. Actually spent a little time chatting around camp after dark, and playing with a dice activity game (gift #2 from uncle Muz et al for one lucky Roly bear!) before all retiring for the night.

Miriwoong country

After breakfast, the first little Kimberley highlight stop was Zebedee Springs. Just past the entrance to El Questro, they open access to between 7am and midday – they say to limit traffic and damage, but we suspect it actually then allows them to take fancy private guests through unencumbered by the general population. A tiny oasis of 28 to 34 degree spring water, we found a pool to cram into and enjoyed a nice soak to start our day.

Feeling inspired and ready, we planned to tackle El Questro gorge. With a deep water crossing to get to the start, we were grateful for Fred the 4WD’s snorkel. Muz drove us all though, people and kit piled in and on, with ease. Sam was so impressed he offered rewards I can’t mention given this PG rated blog.

Roly led the way for the start of the hike. Hen strapped to Sam and toddler carrier empty but prepared on Kat’s back. He did a great job through the swampy and rocky first part, but climbed aboard his chariot when the bouldering began. Fortunately we have fit friends and TK took the challenge of hauling a little person up the gorge. I’d say happily, but I’m not sure he had a choice. Although both were smiling the whole way, so clearly a little weighted exercise wasn’t too cumbersome.

The titular gorge walk was impressive as expected. Greener, wetter and more lush than Kat and Sam remember from years ago on the original Roly’s Road Trip, we made it to halfway pool in almost no time at all, but decided to press on through the more challenging section to the very end of the gorge, MacMicking pool.

This bit was much more difficult, starting with wading through the nipple/waist high (depending on your height) pool, holding gear and infants above our heads, and throwing it all up on the higher rocks to follow the trail. Kat, not even able to blame ‘shortest legs on the trip’ needed some help to get up and over too, in a manner not dissimilar to how one might see a seal flop itself out of the water onto a rock. Good thing we’re all friends here!

We climbed above a waterfall, over boulders and scaled fairly sheer rock walls to get there, but were rewarded with the cool MacMicking pool all to ourselves. Enjoyed a swim and a spot of lunch.

The only way back was the way we’d come, so back down the gorge we went. With crossing river banks and finding the trail, what was advertised as a 6km return trek the GPS watches amongst the group tell us was 8.8km. and it felt like it! If only Zebedee was open in the afternoon for a recovery dip!

We made do with an ice-cream and a beer at the station bar instead. TK and Cecilia forgoing their scheduled training session, deeming the gorge exercise enough for the day (so it must have been tough!). We said hello to Jill the donkey again (Roly at a distance) and settled into camp for the rest of the day, watching sunset on Mr boab and enjoying a camp curry courtesy of Muz and Tegs before all retiring to bed before 8pm!

Miriwoong country

We were up with the sun as usual. Had a brekky of a big shared bowl of Wheetbix between 4 and took stock of the place. Set up a few more camp tables in anticipation of our party expanding, but soon found we were somewhat parked on an ants nest, and as the sun climbed higher we were distinctly lacking shade.

Feeling this would simply not do for our esteemed guests, we headed up to the station for a coffee and to negotiate our site. Had a peek down ‘Parrot’ camp on the way past, which looked lovely and shady, so put that on our short list. The station staff were very accommodating. With a big book of private campsite info and photos, we elected to move to ‘Egret’ (Parrot already booked).

So we packed up what we’d just set up, and car loaded very haphazardly drove the few kms up the private campsite road to our new site. And were not disappointed. The track passed a spotless composting toilet, then opened onto a lovely shady space, with views of a full river, and a firepit under a huge boab tree. Set up again, putting our tent facing the river and strung a clothesline nearby. We could see what we’re certain were croc tracks on the sandy river bank opposite, but fortunately rocky scrub afforded us some safety separated from the river’s edge.

The story goes that the boab was once a beautiful tree, but did something to anger the gods, and in punishment was ripped from the ground and replanted upside down, hence the characteristic bare reaching branches, appearing as though roots in the sky.

After a standard camp lunch of pan-toasted sandwiches, we headed back up to the station. Had a little icecream treat and made use of some phone reception. We were just kicking a soccer ball around on the grass when the white Prado we were waiting for pulled up amongst all the other white Prados.

Out of the hire car named “Fred” climbed the people we’d been waiting for – Muz, Tegs, TK & Cecilia. Fresh from the East coast (via Darwin and a Litchfield swim) and armed with a toy monster truck for one lucky bug

After checking in, and checking out the shop, they were keen to get set up (and TK & Cecilia were keen for a run). So we got acquainted at camp Egret, overseen by old man boab. While the fittest two went for a casual 20k, the rest of us hopped in the dammed off and assuredly croc free swimming hole by the main camp ground.

Walking back to the car we saw Jill, the resident station donkey. Muz, Tegs and Roly went up to say hi, but she took offence to Roly’s proximity and let him know with a nip to the front of his tshirt! Roly, so taken aback, bawled and held his breath until he passed out – not terribly uncommon in toddlers. Nearly gave Muz a heart attack when he suddenly went limp in his arms though! But no real harm done, and after a suitable period of tears Roly deemed Jill his friend again. Muz however, might need longer to recover.

We had a date with a sunset view, so 4:30pm had Sam frantically putting a big lamb roast in the camp oven (coals prepared earlier). The runners ran right into running cars and we took the rocky steep 4wd track up to Saddleback Ridge.

At the first turn around we could see the sun getting lower rapidly, and a couple of El Questro trucks at the platform at the end, so we decided this was good enough for us. Enjoyed the colours of an amazing Kimberley sunset over the station, Pentacost River and tall grass one direction, and hills dotted with controlled burns on the other. A perfect introduction to our group trip, we celebrated the catch up with cold beers and cheese (just the essentials in the car fridge).

At camp we enjoyed roast lamb and veges (ash dusted by accident) and a fireside chat with big mister boab listening in before retiring to our tents, ready to explore.

Gooniyandi country & Miriwoong country

Kat got the boss’s blessing to sneak out of work a bit early, so letters finished and calls made, Sam, boys and trailer swooped past the hospital to pick her up on Friday afternoon. We hit the road East, with a fair few kms to make before meeting some special folk in a few days time.

A couple of roadside stops for nappy changes and bush wees, and with a car full of snacks, we drove through another spectacular sunset. Controlled burns at the roadside lit our way after dark to camp the night at Ngumban Lookout roadside stop. Only a few other cars and campers set up overlooking the escarpment, but one of whom ran their generator all. night. long. Pulling in late with an unconventional in car dinner, the boys did not settle well into the tent. Sam read more pages of a space-themed library book than he would have liked. (Neil Armstrong the newest toddler obsession). Kat got a beautiful view of the starry sky outside while endlessly rocking a grizzle baby to sleep.

Still, a night in the tent was perfect. (Or would have been if both kids slept through and aforementioned generator was turned off). It was a cool night, and we woke to a bright orange sunrise. Henry ate most of Roly’s Wheetbix while Roly was distracted digging in the red dirt, then Hen joined the effort to become pindan stained while mum and dad packed up camp.

We stopped in Halls Creek for fuel and a stretch of the legs in the park. The town was mostly shut up with covid sweeping through its undervaccinated population. We made a coffee and kicked a soccer ball and talked to a bloke from Ballarat (a school teacher?) who had brought a boarding kid home to see his family, some of whom were unfortunately stuck isolating. We didn’t have much local knowledge to suggest what to fill his weekend with, waiting for their return journey, but hopefully a 15min chat with a stranger gave some reprieve from a book and the hotel pool.

Several hours and a few roadside stops for wees and feeds (and one toddler bush poo now buried roadside) we pulled up to Kununurra. Having missed cafe opening hours, we made the most of the Ord River Roadhouse for a late lunch, and picked up some excellent fresh baked hot cross buns. Then shared our grocery dollars between the IGA and Coles – attending the former out of loyalty from our quarantine days, but finding the shelves a little bare.

Then, on to El Questro! The road in was only a little corrugated, and the river crossings shallow. But the surrounding bush was greener than we remember it, even with small controlled burns dotting the landscape black and red. The smokey air gave the place a very eerie feel as we drove in, chasing the sunset to get set up before dark.

We’d decided to splurge on a private campsite. Allocated ‘Mopoke’, we cooked dinner and wrangled two kids to bed to the sound of the rushing river, just a short distance away.

An update on our first two and a bit months in Broome.

The hospital put us up in a teeny but perfectly functional one bedroom apartment while we continued the hunt for a rental of our own. We were there longer than we had hoped, but we’re very grateful of a roof over our heads and an air conditioner blowing. We arrived just before a weekend of enormous rain – uncharacteristic even for the wet season. Broome got its annual rainfall in two days, and every street became a river. Eventually we moved into what Roly calls our ‘big house” – an unusual pod style set up with room for guests and a little pool we are in at least three times a day. Mangala (the wet season) is now ending, heralded by the arrival of dragonflies. There’s a breeze blowing and we’re looking forward to sleeping with only the screen door closed. Every sunset is spectacular, from any angle. Each week we eat at least one meal driving on the beach at Ganthaume point and have at least one beer sitting outside at Matso’s.

Sam settled right into the Broome Toddler Circuit, attending all activities intended to wear children out, and making friends immediately with Joanna, Tom and 2yo Tomasz who have taken us under their wing as 10 year locals and had us around in their pool several times a week. While he will tell you he looked “unpolished” at the start, he’s a natural at wrangling two kids. Kat would tell you he leaves something to be desired with keeping house, but you can’t beat coming home to two wild but happy kids and dinner cooking. After a few weeks trying to work with scraps of time after the kids were in bed, we snaffled some daycare days, so now he gets some full days of child-free time to attend to projects remotely, one of which is an upcoming exercise that will have him based up the road in Derby at RAAF Curtain.

Kat loves her job. Co-reg Zoe is a legend and with 4WD and doggo Billie (easing the heartache of missing our girl Ita) we enjoy regular Friday drinks on the beach. And sometimes Sunday drinks on the beach. The medicine is challenging and fascinating. The workload is better than any other job she can remember. The bosses are great people who offer advice on exploring the region alongside clinical supervision. The only downside has been the arrival of COVID19 to the Kimberley, temporarily halting our travel but fortunately not creating significant pressure on our small hospitals (although the GPs and RANs across the region are doing a stellar job managing now over 1500 cases in our vulnerable population). Kat looks forward to putting the telehealth headset away and visiting some of the clinics in person as travel resumes soon. Hopefully with family in tow.

Roly is living his best life. Perpetually covered in sand – from the beach or the daycare sandpit, he’s not discriminatory. Doing swimming lessons and practicing in the pool at home, he’s nearly independent. He loves climbing rocks at the park with Tomasz, learning tumbles at KindyGym, and having Dad at his beck and call on “boys days”.

Henry’s happy, busy crawling after Roly and shoving cucumber, strawberries and all “real people food” he can get in his mouth. Still charming everyone with his bright blue eyes and big smiles.

We’re looking forward to lots of visitors and lots of adventures and already feel like the year is going to fly by too fast.

Day : 39

Location : Broome, Yawuru Country

Kms travelled : 577

Awake by 5am to one happy child and one ratty (we’ll let you guess which one was which) we did a quick pack up and were on the road by 6:30am. It was a beautiful night in the tent, not too cool with a bit of cloud cover and a distant lightning show that didn’t bring any rain on our set up. The morning warmed gently, but was not unpleasant, and we savoured our time outdoors (even if it was rushed to sort those kids out).

We headed west on the final leg of our adventure. The scenery continues to amaze and we think we’re really going to have a great year in the Kimberley. We drove through our first real rain of the wet. Although it was patchy, pools appeared at the roadside, and we drove through a few small puddles much to Roly’s delight.

We stopped at Fitzroy Crossing for a change &feed, snack and stretch of the legs. Our only caffeination options were bottled iced coffee from the IGA or automated machine coffee from the servo so naturally we got both. Henry smiled and charmed the girls at the supermarket checkout and the elderly Aboriginal ladies sitting around the little shopping complex. Babies are excellent icebreakers. We sat under the trees at the visitor centre and enjoyed our snacks.

Henry’s little tummy couldn’t hold out the whole way to Broome, so we stopped at the Willare Bridge Roadhouse just past the Derby turnoff. Had a chat to the nice young fella behind the counter. A bloke out front drove through some muddy puddles with some speed just for Roly’s benefit. This would actually be a nice little spot for a close weekend trip. The roadhouse has a good looking bistro, and pool, with a bit of personality about it.

Just a few hours later we were in Broome! Rainclouds overhead, we felt a sense of relief. Stopped for a selfie at the sign just out of town, and got a call from Kat’s lovely work administrator checking in about when we were getting in to pick up the keys to a little hospital owned apartment – our temporary accommodation while we found our feet. First order of business, with toddler energy to burn, was the water park near town beach, where I expect we’ll spend a lot of time in coming months, and caught the first of many spectacular sunsets.

Day : 38

Location : Mary Pool Rest Area, Gooniyandi country

Kms travelled : 468km

The G2G Now app alerted us to our freedom at midnight, and while it was tempting to escape immediately, we decided it was too hard with two kids.

So we waited for Henry to squeal us all awake just before 6am to finalize the pack up. Roly spent the morning having a series of tantrums, which slowed our progress out the door. Henry alternated screams of despair (at being left unattended on his mat surrounded by toys) and delight (at being picked up and involved in the packing process). A very light drizzle began as we swept up the last of the red dirt tracked inside and checked under the couches for stray duplo and matchbox cars.

Eventually we waved goodbye to the house that had been both our captor and saviour, and nearly forgetting what it felt like in the car went the few kms into town in search of a real coffee. Much was closed, being a public holiday, but the Cornerside cafe delivered the goods. It felt strange being surrounded by other people, and not wearing masks (there’s no mandate here unless you’ve recently been in the Perth or Peel regions).

We didn’t delay long, eager to hit the road, but we felt a fondness for Kununurra as we drove out of town. Having spent two weeks here (albeit cooped up!) certainly gave us an appreciation for the place, and we’re eager to explore it more in future visits this year.

We realised we’ve driven the road south to Halls Creek before, on our 2019 trip with baby Roly. Again, the scenery was spectacular but in a different way to how we remember it, with greenery climbing big red cliffs, and scattered boabs at the roadside. A few drops of rain kept everything just a little cooler, and we realised the first part of our adventure west had been firmly during the build-up to the wet, and our memories of it coloured a little unpleasant accordingly.

We didn’t do Lake Argyle this time, or last time either, so will have to come back to that. Passed the turn off to Purnululu, forgetting just how close this landmark is to the border and reminding ourselves to put it on the list for another good explore when we find ourselves in the East Kimberley again.

We stopped for fuel and a quick stretch of the legs at Halls Creek. The public holiday had most people out in the main central park. A vaccination van was trying to drum up business (unsuccessfully – the Kimberley has a 60 something percent double vaccination rate, and a 40 something percent indigenous population). One of the nurses came up for a chat and was fairly scathing of the lifestyle choices of the population she was serving, gesturing to the 1.25L soft drink bottles strewn about the place and reporting on the ‘drug problem’ in the area. Kat made a mental note to ask about what drugs are prevalent, suspecting mostly marijuana/gunja but perhaps a small amount of amphetamine (later confirmed true).

We felt a burning need for a night outdoors, and pulled up after a pretty big day in the car at Mary Pool rest area. With only one or two other campers, we near had the shady, grassy spot to ourselves, so we set up the tent (a little musty after two weeks packed away) and went for a wander along the banks of the swollen Mary river.

An Aboriginal family from the neighbouring Yiyili community were also enjoying the spot, fishing and cooking up a fat goanna they’d caught. Roly was fascinated. The dad of the group was happy to tell him about how they cook it in the coals, and share some bush berries collected from a nearby tree.

Roly played on the bank of the river (assured he was presently unlikely to meet a crocodile by the local kids) until we dragged him back to camp for a much less exciting dinner than the other group and a much longed for tent bed.

Day : 34 – 37

Saturday / day 11 quaro : Roly and Sam are allowed out again for a dressing change, so we schedule that for the middle of the day just for something to look forward to. Grandma and Grandpa are at our Brisbane house trying to finalise the renovation. We realise there’s a lot left undone and really appreciate their help.

Sunday / day 12 quaro : We get dressed up and collect ourselves on the couch at 7:30am to watch the Livestream of cousin Billy’s christening. We suddenly feel quite far from home. Take an exciting trip to the local hospital for our mandatory covid swabs. There’s more to Kunanurra than we remember and we look forward to seeing more of it on our release. Roly has a silly video call with his buddy Kiki back home, and they both ask repeatedly if they can go to each other’s house for a play. It’s a day where we feel very very far away, and we cross everything that the WA border opens for some visitors or trips to the east coast later in the year.

Monday / day 13 quaro : We remember to put the bin out this time! Although there’s only one for general waste, seems the Kimberley is lacking in a formal recycling plant, although some things can be taken to containers for change or a local hub. We make some calls and try and make some progress on somewhere to live, but true to form dealing with real estates as a tenant is frustrating.

Tuesday / day 14 quaro : like chumps, we thought crossing the border early meant an early release. Not so. Quarantine ends at midnight on day 14. Our (negative) swab results (a requirement for release) don’t come through until late in the evening anyway. We start the day motivated to pack and prepare for departure, then gradually become more lethargic until we’re watching a video of animal fails with another Kimbercrust pizza in front of us. Kat tries out more of the household gadgets – steam mop fairly effective, although cumbersome needing to be plugged in to work, Dyson gets another go and performs better on carpet. We also give everything a wipe over with hospital grade antimicrobial wipes for what it’s worth and hopefully leave the little house looking nice for its owners as an extra thank you.

Day : 33

Friday / Day 10 quaro

Roly wakes to decorations of dinosaurs and diggers and a brand new bright red big boy bike in the hallway. It’s still a little big for him so Sam tinkers with the seat to make it fit better. He’s chuffed and Sam does his back in holding him steady while he tries out pedaling (no training wheels on Sam’s watch!).

We had anticipated a request for bacon for breakfast, but nope, prefers Wheetbix. Afterwards, we make a start on the birthday cake with a good old packet mix – thankfully Roly requested a “circle chocolate cake” for his birthday, easy done. We decorate it with what we’ve got, which is a big number 3 candle and digger toys. We eat a slice each after lunch.

After cake another present is unwrapped (or revealed, nothing is actually wrapped this year) – it’s a totem tennis pole from Granny and Nan Nan. We set it up in the yard and all have a hit. Roly’s suprisingly good at it. We make a joke that Henry’s birthday present to Roly is a fart, and Roly loves telling everyone that when he has special birthday video chats with his cousins and grandparents. He even gets special birthday video calls from his besties Leo and Tommy back home! Seeing toddlers with technology is both amazing and terrifying.

Taking the lead of the birthday boy, we spend the afternoon practicing on the bike and watching some ABC kids off our usual schedule. Kat cooks her (read: Granny’s) special chicken nuggets for dinner in the airfryer (with instructions via Sal and Kaila on family chat) and it solidifies her feeling that she needs one. We have more cake for dessert. Roly’s shattered from a day of snacking and bike riding, and we’re pretty pleased we made it a special birthday despite quarantine.

Day : 29 – 32

Location : quarantine

Monday / day 6 quaro : We wake up to find we missed bin day. Good thing we’re here another week. Roly enjoys Cosmic Kids Yoga on YouTube. Henry leads some yoga moves too having recently discovered his feet. We limit tv time to our established routine of 7:33am Fireman Sam, 9:30am Play School, 2pm Bob the Builder. We’re running low on milk and bread so order another delivery of groceries. Kat’s crocheting is getting better. It rains.

Tuesday / day 7 quaro : Halfway! Kat leans into it by sitting out the back watching the storms roll over nearly all day. In fact, we all just kind of hang out the back. The fresh air is nice. We organise a special delivery for a special birthday this week. Send a lot of admin emails. Order a pizza delivery from the Kimbercrust Bakery, just reopened today after the holiday break. When we call at 5:05pm (they open at 5pm) they’ve already been inundated with orders. The drop off is superb and the pizza likewise.

Wednesday / day 8 quaro : we admire caterpillars, lizards and birds in the garden – everything is more colourful here! We long for a pool, when it cools down a little in the afternoon Roly plays in a bucket of water in the yard.

Thursday / day 9 quaro : A big knock on the door in the morning surprises us – it’s WA police checking in. Made Roly’s day to say hi to the police man. We get a grocery delivery, and our kind community contact picks something up from the toy store for us in preparation for a big special day tomorrow. Roly wants to make pikelets, but only one gets flipped before he knocks his hand on the hot pan. So he gets running cold water for three Bob the Builder episodes and Sam and Roly escape quarantine briefly for a trip to the local hospital for a clean and a proper dressing. On their return the pikelet making continues. The rest of the day is far less eventful.